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Croatian Cruising Report
Croatia is rapidly being hailed as a wonderful place to charter a yacht. The
water is a rich turquiose blue, it is warm and crystal clear, the weather is
normally warm and sunny throughout the summer and the distances between the
islands are enough for a sail but still comfortable for those who like to spend
some time ashore. The architechture of the charming old ports is part Venetian,
whilst feeling fortified and many have a maze of alleyways with restuarants and
bars tucked away. Not only do the ports offer superb shelter overnight with
managed marinas and town berths, but there are many inlets affording
comfortable anchorages for liesurely swimming and lunch. Many stay overnight,
taking a line to a tree to give added security should the wind perk up.
We picked up our Beneteau Clipper 393 in Trogir, a medievil walled town on an
island connected by a small bridge. Being only 10 minutes from the Airport
(Split - flown to by several airlines including Easyjet and British Airways)
was extraordinary. We had barely got in the minibus sent to meet us before we
had arrived at the pontoon. Having gone through the boarding formalities, we
set for Maslinica on the island of Solta, a couple of hours gentle sail away.
The village was small and charming with a handful of restaurants and bars. The
food was very good, lots of meat and fish. The local wines (most from Hvar
island) were surprisingly good. Perfect for night one and we slept stern to, as
we did each night, using the laid bow mooring line, no anchor, no hassle.
The following morning we felt in need of a bit of night life in the new 'St Tropez'
and headed for Hvar. The town quay is often full and other than anchoring the
best option is a marina on Pakleni otoci, a twenty one islet archipelago
immediately adjacent to Hvar town and only 10 minutes by watertaxi. We found a
bay between two of the islet for lunch that was gorgeous and swam and relaxed.
Later in the afternoon we headed to the marina, with all the expected services,
though unremarkable otherwise. Having spruced ourselves up, we took the
watertaxi and had a superb dinner in one of the many fashionable and very good
restaurants followed by a bit of late night after dinner drinks in a busy bar
with a DJ.
Day three we sailed to Vis, a three hour trip motor sailing and had
lunch in a little inlet half an hour from the main town. Vis town is charming
and pleasantly low key after Hvar. There were some locals who made it special
by singing in wonderful harmionies a lamenting song about lost love while we
finished our supper sitting on the quay.
The next morning we headed out again for Stari Grad, tucked up a long inlet on the south side of Hvar Island.
Another charming town with a very sheltered quay and excellent restaurants on
the water or in the back streets. The weather was a little inclement on day
four and we elected to return to Hvar town (20-30 mins by road) to try another
restaurant we had been unable to get into the last visit. It was well worth it
and we went dancing again!
The next morning we were off bright and early,
heading for Bol on the isalnd of Brac, some distance away, probably 1.5 hours.
It is famous for Zlatni Rat, a sizable sand spit adjacent. We fuelled and
bought lunch in Bol, stayed briefly at the spit and then motored up the south
coast of Brac to a little inlet for lunch near our destination that evening of
Milna. Milna,our final port before Trogig, is again a small, lovely old town
with restaurants near the water.
The final day involved sailing to islands near
Trogir where we went swimming, fishing and lunching as usual before a brisk
sail to back to Trogir. We were swifly checked over and settled any monies
before another great meal out. Our plane left the following morning, but the
timings were again easy due to the proximity of the airport.
Top tips for Croatia:
It can be windy so be aware, the marinas are often full by 4pm so
don't be late unless you wish to anchor, you are more likely to hit land above
water than below it as there are very few shallow areas except very close to
the land. |
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